Tag Archives: energy

The joy of curtains

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By Dr. Robert E. Buxbaum January 18, 2013

In our northern climates most homes have double-paned windows; they cost a fortune, and are a lot better than plain glass, but they still lose a lot of heat: far more than the equivalent area of wall. The insulation value is poor mostly because the thickness is low: a typical double pane window is only ½” thick. The glass panes have hardly any insulation value, so the majority of the insulation is the 0.3″ air space between them. Our outer walls, by contrast, are typically 6” thick filled with glass –wool. The wall is 12 times as thick as the window, and it turns out that the R value is about 12 times as great. Since window area is about 1/10 the wall area, we can expect that about half your homes heat goes out through the windows (about half the air-conditioner cooling in the summer too). A good trick to improve your home’s insulation, then, is to add curtains as this provides a fairly thick layer of stagnant air inside the room, right next to your windows.

To see how much you can save by adding curtains, it’s nice (for me, and my mind-set mostly) to talk in terms of R values. In the northern USA, the “R” value of a typical, well-insulated outer wall is about 24. What that means is that it takes 24°F and one square foot of wall to remove 1 BTU per hour. That is, the resistance to heat loss is 24 °F.hr.ft2/BTU. The R value for a typical double pane window is about 2 in the same units, and is only 1 if you have single panes. The insulating quality of our windows is so poor that, for many homes, more heat is lost through the windows than through the rest of the wall space.

To figure out how much heat is lost through your windows take the area in square feet multiply by a typical temperature differential (50°F might be typical in Michigan), and divide by the R value of your paned windows (1 or 2) depending on whether it’s single or double paned. Since heat costs about $10/MMBTU ($10 per million BTU) for a gas heated house, you can figure out what a small, 10 ft2 window costs a typical Michigan householder as follows, assuming a single pane (R=1):

Q = Area* ∆T/R = 10 ft2 * 50°F/1 = 500 BTU/hr. Here Q is the heat lost per unit time, ∆T is the temperature difference between the window surface and the room, and A is the ara of the window surface.

Since there are 24 hours in a day, and 30.5 days in a month the dollar cost of that window is 500*24*31.5*10/1,000,000 = $3.78/month. After a few years, you’ll have paid $200 for that small window in lost heat and another $200 in air conditioning.

A cheap solution is to add curtains, shades, or plastic of some sort. These should not be placed too close to the window, or you won’t have a decent air gap, nor so far that the air will not be static in the gap. For small gaps between the window glass and your plastic or curtain, the heat transfer rate is proportional to the thermal conductivity of air, k, and inversely proportional to the air gap distance, ∂.

Q = ∆T A k /∂.

R  = ∂/k.

The thermal conductivity of air, k, is about .024 BTU/ft. hr°F. We thus confirm that the the R-value for an air gap of 9/16” or 1/20 foot is about 2 in these units. Though the typical air gap between the glass is less, about .3″ there is some more stagnant air outside the glass an that counts towards the 9/16″ of stagnant air. The k value of glass or plastic is much higher than of air, so the layers of glass or plastic add almost nothing to the total heat transfer resistance.

Because the R value of glass and plastic is so low, if you cover your window with a layer of plastic sheet that touches the window, the insulation effect is basically zero. To get insulation value you want to use a gap between about ½” and 1” in thickness. If you already have a 2 paned window of R value 2, you can expect to be able to raise your insulation value to 4 by adding a plastic sheet or single curtain at 9/16” from the glass.

Sorry to say, you can’t raise this insulation value much higher than 4 by use of a single air gap that’s more than 1″ thick. When a single gap exceeds this size, the insulating value drops dramatically as gas circulation in the gap (free convection) drives heat transfer. That’s why wall insulation has fiber-glass fill. For your home, you will want something more attractive than fiberglass between you and the window pane, and typical approaches  include cellular blinds or double layer drapes. These work on the same principle as the single sheet, but have extra layers that stop convection.

My favorite version of the double drapes is the federalist version, where the inner drape is near transparent, shim cloth hangs close to the window, with a heavier drape beyond that. The heavier curtain is closed at night and opened in daytime; where insulation is needed, the lighter cloth hangs day and night. This looks a lot better than a roll-type window shade, or bamboo screen. Besides, with a roll-shade or bamboo, you must put it close to the window where it will interfere with the convection flow, that is cold shedding from the shut window.

Another nice alternative is a “cell shade” These are folded lengths of two or more stiff cloths that are formed into honeycombs ½” to 2” apart. This empty thickness provides the insulating power of the shade. Placed at the right distance from the window, the cell shade will add 3 or more to the overall R value of the window (1/12 ft / .024 BTU/ft. hr°F = 3.5 ft2hr°F/BTU). As with a bamboo screen, all this R value goes away if the shade is set at more than about 1” from the window or an interior shade. At a greater thickness that this, the free convection flow of cold air between the window and the shade dominates, and you get a puddle of cold air on the floor. 

I would suggest a cellular shade that opens from the bottom only and is translucent. This provides light and privacy; a shade that is too dark will be left open. Behind this, my home has double-pane windows (when I was single the window was covered by a layer of plastic too). The see-through shade provides insulation while allowing one to see out the window (or let light in) when the shade is drawn. You want to be able to see out; that’s the reason you had a window in the first place. Very thick, insulating curtains and blinds seem like a waste to me – they are enough thicker to add any significant R-value, they block the light, and if they end up far from the window, the shedding heat loss will more than offset any small advantage from the thick cloth.

One last window insulation option that’s worth mentioning is a reflective coating on the glass (an e-coating). This is not as bad an idea as you might think, even in a cold climate as in Detroit. A surprising amount of heat tends to escape your windows in the form of radiation. That is, the heat leaves by way of invisible (infra –red) light that passes unimpeded through the double pane glass. In hot climates even more heat comes in this way, and a coating is even more useful to preserve air conditioning power. Reflective plastic coats are cheap enough and readily available, though they can be hard to apply, and are not always attractive.

You can expect to reduce the window heat loss by a factor of 3 or more using these treatments, reducing the heat loss through the small window to $1.00 or so per month, far enough that the main heat loss is through the walls. At that point, it may be worth putting your efforts elsewhere. Window treatments can save you money, make a previously uninhabitable room pleasant, and can help preserve this fair planet of ours. Enjoy.

Updated, Feb 9, 2022, REB.

How hydrogen and/or water can improve automobile mileage (mpg)

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In case you’ve ever wondered why it was that performance cars got such poor milage, or why you got such bad milage in the city, the biggest single problem has to do with the vacuum drawn by the engine, some of the problem has to do with the speed of combustion, some has to do with rolling friction, and some with start/stop loss too. Only a very small fraction of the energy is lost on air friction until you reach highway speeds.

Lets consider vacuum loss first as it is likely the worst offender. A typical US car, e.g. a Chevy Malibu, has a 3.5 liter engine (a performance car has an engine that’s much larger). As you toodle down a street at 35 mph, your engine is going at about 2000 rpm, or 33 rps. Since the power required to move the car is far less than the 200 hp that the car could deliver, the air intake is throttled so that the engine is sucking a vacuum of about 75 kpa (10 psi for those using English units). To calculate the power loss this entails, multiply 33*3.5*80; this is about 8662 Watts, or 12 hp. To find the energy use per mile, divide by your average speed, 25 mph (it would be 35 mph, but you sometimes stop for lights). 8 kW/25 mph = .21 kW-hr/mile. One finds, as I’ll show that the car expends more energy sucking this vacuum than pushing the car itself. This is where the majority of the city mpg goes in a normal car, but it’s worse in a high performance car is worse since the engine is bigger. In city driving, the performance mpg will be lower than for a Malibu even if the performance car is lighter, if it has better aerodynamics (it does), and if you never stop at lights.

The two other big places were city mileage goes is overcoming rolling friction and the need to stop and go at lights, stop signs, etc. The energy used for rolling friction is the force it would take to push your car on level ground when in neutral times the distance. For a typical car, the push force is about 70 lbs or 32 kgs or 315 Nt; it’s roughly proportional to the car’s weight. At 35 mph, or 15.5 m/s, the amount of power this absorbs is calculated as the product of force and speed: 15.5*315 = 4882 W, or about 6.5 hp. The energy use is 4.9 kW/35 mph =.14 kWhr/mile. The energy loss from stop lights is similar to this, about .16 kWhr/mile, something you can tell by getting the car up to speed and seeing how far it goes before it stops. It’ll go about 2-3 blocks, a little less distance than you are likely to go without having to stop. Air resistance adds a very small amount at these speeds, about 2000 W, 2.7 hp, or .05 kWhr/mile; it’s far more relevant at 65 mph, but still isn’t that large.

If you add all this together, you find the average car uses about .56 kWhr/mile. For an average density gasoline of 5.6 lb/gal, and average energy-dense gasoline, 18,000 BTU/lb, and an average car engine efficiency of 11000 BTU/kWhr, you can now predict an average city gas mileage of 16.9 mpg, about what you find experimentally. Applying the same methods to highway traffic at 65 mph, you predict .38 kWhr/mile, or 25 mpg. Your rpms are the same on the highway as in the city, but the throttle is open so you get more power and loose less to vacuum.

Now, how do you increase a car’s mpg. If you’re a Detroit automaker you could reduce the weight of the car, or you the customer can clean the junk out of your trunk. Every 35 lbs or so increases the rolling friction by about 1%. These is another way to reduce rolling friction and that’s to get low resistance tires, or keep the tires you’ve got full of air. Still, what you’d really like to do is reduce the loss to vacuum energy, since vacuum loss is a bigger drain on mpg.

The first, simple way to reduce vacuum energy loss is to run lean: that is, to add more air than necessary for combustion. Sorry to say, that’s illegal now, but in the olden days before pollution control you could boost your mpg by adjusting your carburator to add about 10% excess of air. This reduced your passing power and the air pollution folks made it illegal (and difficult) after they noticed that it excess air increased NOx emissions. The oxygen sensor on most cars keeps you from playing with the carburator these days.

Another approach is to use a much smaller engine. The Japanese and Koreans used to do this, and they got good milage as a result. The problem here is that you now had to have a very light car or you’d get very low power and low acceleration — and no American likes that. A recent approach to make up for some of the loss of acceleration is by adding a battery and an electric motor; you’re now making a hybrid car. But the batteries add significant cost, weight and complexity to these cars, and not everyone feels this is worth it. So now on to my main topic: adding steam or hydrogen.

There is plenty of excess heat on the car manifold. A simile use of this heat is to warm some water to the point where the vapor pressure is, for example, 50 kPa. The pressure from this water adds to the power of your engine by allowing a reduction in the vacuum to 50 kPa or less. This cuts the vacuum loss at low speeds. At high speed and power the car automatically increases the air pressure and the water stops evaporating, so there is no loss of power. I’m currently testing this modification on my own automobile partly for the fun of it, and partly as a preface to my next step: using the car engine heat to run the reaction CH3OH + H2O –> CO2 + H2. I’ll talk more about our efforts adding hydrogen elsewhere, but thought you might be interested in these fundamentals.

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